How a new wave of cafes are changing the Parisian coffee experience

One of the world’s epicentres of good taste, Paris has somewhat bafflingly lagged behind on coffee. For years, the city’s cafe scene had been defined by the inky, bitter espresso served in its neighbourhood bistros — the result, mainly, of a supply chain dominated by large industrial players like Cafés Richard and their penchant for tart robusta. Coffee was quick and functional, not something to linger over.

However, over the past decade or so, a coffee revolution has taken place. Well-travelled French entrepreneurs, together with a clutch of Australian and American expats, have introduced artisanal roasteries with lighter blends, longer menus and a whole new approach to cafe culture. Pillars of the city’s craft coffee movement materialised — among them HolyBelly, Folks and Sparrows, and Hardware Société — serving everything from pancakes to avocado toast alongside fresh roasts. And these new outlets have proved popular with the locals.

According to trade association Collectif Café, the number of independent coffeeshops in France has rocketed in the past 10 years, with a new cafe opening every week. But coffee is now seeing a second revolution.

More and more cafes are giving the trend a design-led twist. Leading the charge was Café Nuances in the 1st arrondissement. When it opened in 2021, it was striking, with an industrial design and signature blends displayed in drawstring bags. Three offshoots followed, each with their own style, including an artist-curated shop amid the galleries of Le Marais, where cubed seating is made from crumpled tin coffee cups.

There’s also the Noir Coffee Shop chain. In Saint Ouen, you’ll find corrugated iron ceilings and Hollywood-style vanity lights; on Île Saint-Louis, exposed brick walls and polished slabs of stone. Meanwhile, a few streets from the Canal Saint-Martin neighbourhood, Cafe Shin has drawn inspiration from the modern cafes of Seoul. It incorporates brushed concrete, tiled alcoves reminiscent of those in a jjimjilbang (Korean bathhouse) and a sculptured booth that’s sunk into the floor. Matcha fondants and vivid purple goguma lattes, crafted from sweet potato, are on the menu.

This new wave of cafes is pulling Parisian coffee into a fully experiential space, shaped as much by the surroundings as by what’s poured into the cup.

Three more coffee cultures to explore

Sweden: cheese coffee

In northern Sweden, coffee is served with kaffeost — a mild, squeaky cheese that’s cut into cubes and placed directly into the cup. The hot coffee softens the cheese, which is then eaten with a spoon. Rooted in the traditions of the Indigenous Sámi people, adding cheese to coffee was a practical way of staying warm and fed during the region’s long, harsh winters.

Ethiopia: coffee Ceremonies

In Ethiopia, an elaborate coffee ceremony is typically used to welcome guests to one’s home. Beans are roasted in a pan, ground by hand, then brewed in a clay pot known as a jebena. The resulting drink is then served by the woman of the household and the ceremony can last hours, structured as much around conversation as the coffee itself.

Vietnam: egg coffee

In Hanoi, coffee comes with a creamy twist. Egg coffee, or ca phe trung, is made up of layers of whipped egg yolk and condensed milk over robust Vietnamese coffee, creating a custardy foam that sits like a dessert atop the liquid. Often served in small cafes in the Old Quarter, it’s stirred gently with a spoon before drinking, while the hum of scooters filters in from the street.