Visiting Split this summer? Here's what to see and do

History isn’t merely preserved in Split — it’s alive and embedded into the landscape. Buildings in this Dalmatian city in southern Croatia have not only Roman but Venetian, gothic, Renaissance, baroque and Austro-Hungarian influences. Wander through its pale limestone streets to see them glow white at midday and turn golden at sunset.

In Split, all roads lead to Diocletian’s Palace, a Unesco World Heritage Site in the heart of the Old Town (Grad). Roman emperor Diocletian built the massive complex between 295 and 305 CE. Today, it’s not a relic behind ropes and glass — more than 3,000 residents live within its 1,700-year-old walls.

The ancient palace is the best starting point for visitors looking to explore the city. Before entering through the intricately decorated Golden Gate (also known as the Northern Gate), rub Gregory of Nin’s toe for good luck — the statue of the medieval Catholic bishop was created by 19th-century Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović. Then, make your way to the heart of the palace, the Peristil, and climb the bell tower of the Cathedral of St Domnius for 360-degree views. Pause beneath the circular Vestibule, once the entrance to the residential part of the palace, to experience the antechamber’s reverberant acoustics.

A short walk away, enjoy a meal inside the Old Town at Makarun restaurant, which serves a refined, contemporary take on Dalmatian cooking, rooted in seasonal, local ingredients. Expect a variety of fresh seafood and a Dalmatian-style ‘surf and turf’ with lobster tail and lamb chops.

Afterwards, head to the Cellars of Diocletian’s Palace to admire the remarkably preserved Roman stonework. The vaulted basement halls may look familiar to many as a filming location for Game of Thrones. Exit the vast chambers through the Bronze Gate (also known as the Southern Gate), where the expansive Split Riva awaits. The sun blazes down on this pedestrian boardwalk in summer, but towering palm trees provide welcome shade.

A modest round fountain marks the west end of the Riva. In a quiet neighbourhood nearby, cosy restaurant Konoba Fetivi dishes up Dalmatian food shaped by three generations of a local family. Try the hearty pašticada (braised beef) or the fresh seafood platter.

Continuing west, rows of houses soon turn into a pine-shaded path, which marks the entrance to Marjan Forest Park. Often referred to as the ‘lungs of Split’, the leafy park is laced with lookout points along its 12-mile trail network on the Marjan Peninsula. The ultimate viewpoint is Telegrin Peak at 178 metres, where the city’s terracotta rooftops stretch east. The Adriatic Sea glows blue with distant views of Brač, Šolta and Čiovo to the south, and the peaks of Kozjak and Mosor tower to the north.

Back in the city centre, stopping for a scoop is the best way to end the day. Find Gelateria Emiliana in a small street just minutes away from the Peristil. This family-owned ice cream shop serves artisan gelato in hand-baked cones, all made fresh daily.

Those staying a little longer can venture beyond the city to discover white-pebbled beaches and scenic islands. Kašjuni Beach — a crescent-shaped cove at the tip of the Marjan Peninsula — can be reached by local bus from Split’s city centre and has calm waters perfect for swimming. From Split marina, take a ferry or speedboat to visit nearby islands like Šolta, Brač, Hvar and Vis. Explore further offshore on a full-day boat excursion to the Blue Cave on Biševo with a tour operator such as Tinel Boat Tours or Toto Travel.