Where to eat in Chiang Mai, from markets to coffee houses

Thailand’s unofficial capital of the north is a laid-back counterpart to Bangkok. This mountain-ringed city dates back 730 years and has some 300 temples; today, its quiet backstreets see a fraction of the traffic of the south. But another reason to visit? Increasingly, its food. Between the 13th and 18th centuries, Northern Thailand was ruled by the Lanna Kingdom and developed a distinct cuisine. Savoury, sweet and tangy flavours, influenced by neighbours like Myanmar and Laos, are big and often blended into a single dish. Try them in historic markets and sticky-floored joints, as well as a new wave of contemporary restaurants.

Strolling along the Ping River through the east of the city is a peaceful start to the day. Track down Mueang Chiang Mai market, with stalls selling sunflowers and orchids, then cross a bridge to Lung Khajohn Wat Ket restaurant. It’s a simple affair, serving khao kriap pak mo (pork- and peanut-filled parcels submerged in coconut milk) stacked high for delivery. It’s also worth stopping at Wat Ket Karam temple, where a Buddhist chedi (monument) is surrounded by fig and lychee trees.

Cross a bridge again to Warorot Market, the city’s oldest. Locals come to the area to shop for every household item imaginable, but you’re here for Guay Jub Chang Moi Tat Mai. Sit on the restaurant’s plastic stools and dive into a peppery rice noodle soup packed with liver, sausage and roasted pork.

Coffee beans are grown around the city, so you’ll be spoilt for choice. In the Old City, Chiang Mai’s small, walled heart, settle on the peaceful patio at Naree De’ Klang Vieng, manned by female inmates as part of a rehabilitation programme. Or try Akha Ama Coffee; the minimalist cafe — all bare-brick walls and concrete pillars — was set up by a member of the region’s Akha hill tribe and works with local farmers.

(How to plan a food tour around northern Thailand, from Chiang Mai to Phrae.)

Walking in the Old City, you’re bound to come across the Three Kings Monument to Lanna rulers and its adjoining history museum. Nearby is Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan, the area’s most famous temple complex. Take some time to admire its tiled floors, hand-painted murals and — of course — several golden Buddhas. North of this is Wat Lok Moli, another intricately carved temple, particularly beautiful when its lanterns glow after dark.

By night, Chiang Mai’s streets thrum with anticipation for the meal — or meals — ahead. From Wat Lok Moli, you’re temptingly close to Chang Phuak Market. Search for the lady in the cowboy hat; her stall serves up the most flavourful khao kha moo (stewed pork leg with rice), with pickled greens and a vinegary chilli sauce on the side. Alternatively, hop in a tuk-tuk and head to Neng’s Clay Oven Roasted Pork. Try the moo oab ong (crispy roasted pork), served under fluorescent lights with a fresh tam khao pod kai kem (corn salad). If you still have space, head south to Changklan Road for khao soi (beef noodle curry), the city’s most famous dish, said to have been introduced by Chinese Muslim traders. The entire street is known for it, meaning you won’t have a bad one.

For something more formal, there’s the Thai fish salad at Maadae Slow Fish Kitchen, which supports local fisherfolk and sustainable fishing practices. Or book ahead for Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, where the tasting menu explores hyper-local Thai cuisine, with lots of experimentation with ferments.